Beyond the hype, Fredericksburg can still provide a welcome, laid-back getaway experience.
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Story and photographs by Pamela Price
Note: We’re grateful to The Baumgartner House (Facebook | AirBNB) for hosting us on a September weekend in Fredericksburg.
Sunday morning. A stroll down a country lane. Sunlight dancing across autumn leaves. An elegant brunch. These are among the simplest, most unsung pleasures of a fall Fredericksburg getaway.
Oh, sure. There’s the sprawling vineyards, the opulent tasting rooms, the bevy of boutiques and eateries. And we can’t forget the festivals and events.
Those things are wonderful and give a real boost to the local economy.
But can one still find the easy-going vibe that first sparked interest and enthusiasm for this Hill Country community? Can one rediscover the charms upon which local businesses built their reputation way back in the late ‘70s and early ‘80s when the nation’s bicentennial sparked curiosity about regional foodways and folkways?
Yes, if you know where to look.
Hill Country charms
German immigrants staked their claim in the community in the late 1840s, in the wake of significant socio-economic upheaval in Europe. Their arrival here in Texas was greeted with major challenges and hardships. It was a world apart from the Old World.
Yet those immigrants did their best to bring European charm to the rugged landscape.
From smart, tidy Sunday houses and place names to German-style cuisine, modern Fredericksburg makes frequent nods to Europe.
But it does so on its own terms.
And while you’re perhaps less likely now, in 2019, to hear someone speaking German on the street, you can certainly sense those older, slower ways of living continue on beneath the community’s tourist-facing facade.
Main Street moments
On a recent autumn weekend we enjoyed a simple stroll down the wide Main Street, its historic buildings now home to an eclectic mix of shops. With no particular destination in mind, no reservations, we could take our time and focus on places with a slower, cooler vibe.
An especially delightful mix was found in an old car showroom refurbished as a Becker Vineyards tasting room and high-end home good shop. If you feel like you must come back with a travel souvenir, it’s a lovely place to pick up lavender-scented sachets, candles and other goodies.
Another favorite stop? Der Küchen Laden, a delightful, high-end kitchenware store that dates back to the 1970s, now housed in an old hospital that dates to the 1870s. Plus, there’s the Fischer and Weiser’s tiny Main Street location.
At the far end of the town sits one of several galleries, Studio Massaro, which is owned by Catherine Massaro. The artist recently moved her shop from Johnson City. Because she regularly transforms her space with her art, the gallery is always a delight, with some new creation awaiting discovery. That kind of vibe is always worth a stop in my book!
Meals to remember
As you’d expect of a touristy town, there’s an abundance of eateries. We tried, however, to steer ourselves toward places more apt to be frequented by locals. This approach didn’t disappoint.
For lunch on the first day, we skipped the bursting at the seams restaurants on the high street for a place – just behind the National Museum of the Pacific War’s stunning Japanese Garden of Peace – called Tubby’s Ice House. This is how we came to appreciate the simple pleasures of black bean and kale tacos. (Trust me. They were delicious.)
With dinner looming, we later went with a local pizzeria, West End Pizza Company, on the recommendation of a couple of people – and, well, Yelp. Given that they had a gluten-free option was tempting. That the gluten-free crust was extraordinary, as was the service, made for a memorable, no-fuss family evening out.
On Sunday we decided to investigate a couple of storied destinations. Early on, I buzzed by the Old German Bakery and Restaurant to take a look at the bakery case. Granted, I could only take a couple of photos and enjoy a single (gluten-free) meringue, but the warm and friendly vibe coupled with an abundance of locals and tourists alike enjoying eggs and conversation left me craving another visit.
Yet the weekend’s big indulgence was coming—breakfast at the legendary Fredericksburg Herb Farm, specifically their Farm Haus Bistro. Between the three of us dining that morning, we enjoyed: a burger; a plate of eggs, bacon, potatoes and toast; and a glorious herb farm salad. (To burn off some of it, one of us spent some time at the local skate park. And, no, that someone wasn’t me, but I will note that skate park was quite nice.)
Plans for the future
The weekend was so delightful, so laidback, that we’ve decided we need to go back next year.
Maybe we’ll make a point to visit the Mexican free-tail bats (May to OctobeRr only) at Old Tunnel State Park, see Enchanted Rock State Park, or just walk through the neighborhood in which our Air BNB, The Baumgartner’s House, is situated.
For this year, however, the autumn Fredericksburg getaway was magical, a wonderful opportunity to unplug, to stroll, to dine and just exist for a few hours in a town that, for all its understandable popularity, still has an abundance of gentle, gracious hospitality on offer.
