Day of the Dead: Observing The Holiday in Texas

A cherished Mexican tradition now flourishes in Central Texas. Come, friends, to learn more about Day of the Dead.

Detail photograph of La Calavera Catrina at the September 2019 La Villita press conference announcing the launch of Day of the Dead San Antonio.
Image credit: Iris Gonzalez.

Story by Pamela Price

Once seldom observed beyond Central and Southern Mexico, now the Day of the Dead holiday enjoys significant interest stateside. Earlier this year, in fact, San Antonio announced a new citywide series of events designed to pull together and expand upon the Alamo City’s observance of the holiday. This set off a flurry of major regional and national press stories. Meanwhile, local retailers are filling store shelves with all sorts of holiday-themed decor for the occasion.

Fueling much of the holiday’s appeal? A couple of recent animated films that have helped to introduce a wider array of people to Day of the Dead (Dia de los Muertos). 

Yet might there be something more than cinematic charms, something more deeply human that now draws so many of us closer to this colorful, dynamic cultural tradition? I think so.

Let’s take a closer look first at the holiday’s history and then explore how our region has begun to embrace the tradition.

A Moment of Remembrance

In pairing the tenderness of grief and universal longing for loved ones with vibrant celebrations designed to remind us of the fleeting nature of life, Day of the Dead is an invitation to remember. Revelers have the chance to reflect on the past, pay homage to the departed and celebrate the ties that continue to bind them to family and friends. 

For those of us who grew up in cultures where death and related imagery were practically taboo, the holiday is a rare opportunity to examine our own feelings about the human life cycle – and our place in it. 

Unlike Halloween with its playful tricks, sweet treats and wild costumes, Day of the Dead hits more spiritual notes. In every detail—from the skull imagery to the bread, flowers and candles set out on family altars (ofrendas)—is a reminder that life is short, precious. 

Historically, cemeteries have figured prominently in observances. Many families visit them today, recalling loved ones through the sweet fellowship that comes best through shared food, drink and storytelling. Since their remains are situated within earshot of these conversations, it is often hoped that the dearly departed will know how much they are loved and missed.

Family members may also clean and tidy family gravestones, a thoughtful gesture as winter prepares to arrive.

Spiritual Roots

Although Day of the Dead now coincides roughly with All Saint’s Eve, All Soul’s Day and All Saint’s Day, this seemingly “new” holiday reaches much further back in time than Christianity’s arrival in the New World. 

Indeed, it is widely believed that Day of the Dead is connected to an Aztec festival held in honor of the goddess, Mictecacihuatl, a diety who ruled over the afterlife with her husband, Mictlāntēcutli. This “Lady of the Dead” was believed to have presided over underworld festivals. 

Much later, after the first Spaniards arrived in the New World, the festivities migrated around the calendar year, eventually settling into early November. 

Over time, too, the tradition has spread from Central and Southern Mexico, with the Mexican government designating Day of the Dead (or Día de Muertos, as it is commonly known there) a national holiday in the 1960s.

Modern Day of the Dead Customs

Today’s Day of the Dead celebrations extend over a two-day period, November 1 and 2. The first day is dedicated to honoring the souls of lost children; the second, for adults. 

Families and friends, however, may begin constructing altars either at home or in public several days in advance. Others may wait until the last minute, simply putting together some flowers and perhaps a stack of favorite beverage cans or photos near a grave.

There are several common elements present in most altars and decorations.

Where the Aztecs had their Mictecacihuatl, modern celebrants have La Calavera Catrina, the iconic female skeleton typically depicted in fancy dress. Her face and figure are frequently incorporated along with other symbols—both commonplace and personal—into altars set up in memory of deceased loved ones. (It’s worth noting that Catrina’s iconography is rooted in José Guadalupe Posada’s politically charged satirical cartoons, underscoring the holiday’s distinctively Mexican origin story. And then there is, of course, the artwork of Diego Rivera, the artist most commonly associated with her.)

In addition to Catrina imagery, it’s commonplace to see revelers bearing sweet rolls (pan de muerto) and sugar skulls (calaveras). Other popular symbols of the day include large Mexican marigolds and colorful paper items (including papel picado, or tissue paper banners). 

Day of the Dead, Texas-Style

If you’re in Texas in the days just before and immediately after November 1, you may want to keep an eye out for makeshift altars in cemeteries or for larger installations in public spaces. If you’re really lucky, you may even see a flower vendor outside a graveyard. Consider bringing home pots or bouquets of marigolds, if you wish. (We’re partial to the bright orange flowers grown for H.E.B. by the Arnosky family farm, which is nestled in the hills between Blanco and Wimberley.)

Think you’d like something a bit grander in scale for 2019?

If so, then you’ll definitely check out the events listed on the Day of the Dead San Antonio calendar as well as those that appear at VisitSanAntonio.com, including Muertos Fest and the library foundation’s Catrina Ball. Other cities with relevant events include New Braunfels and Austin, with more venues and activities being added every year.

Pamela Price credits Austin’s legendary Mexic-Arte Museum with introducing her to the Day of the Dead traditions while she was an art history graduate student at UT Austin.